Everyone knows the Palace. But the real Versailles, the one where people have lived, strolled, and gardened for three centuries, is hidden just behind the golden gates. It is this city that I invite you to discover on foot in my company.
Our adventure begins at the Versailles Château Rive Gauche train station, a stone's throw from everything. From there, we dive into the Carrés à la Fontaine, in the heart of the Saint-Louis district: a maze of narrow streets with untouched charm, where the old 18th-century stalls now house artisans and unique shops.
A few steps further on, the Cathedral of Saint-Louis opens its doors to us. A baroque jewel somewhat overlooked by the classic routes, it watches over its neighborhood with a discreet majesty, the kind of place you enter out of curiosity and leave having been won over.
A change of scenery with the Salle du Jeu de Paume. Here, courtiers who had become revolutionaries took one of the most famous oaths in the History of France. It's hard not to feel a shiver as you walk on this floor where everything changed in 1789.
Then it's time to take a breath: the Pièce d'Eau des Suisses, a huge mirror of water dug out by hand by Louis XIV's Swiss Guards, offers one of the most beautiful escapes in the city. We walk along its banks, take a breath, and admire the view.
A gourmet break is a must at Little Versailles, a cozy little gem nestled on Rue du Vieux Versailles, a spot that regulars jealously keep to themselves.
We continue to the Potager du Roi, a secret setting where the genius of Jean-Baptiste de La Quintinie continues to feed Versailles as he fed the table of the Sun King. Espaliered pear trees, fruit walls, and intact expertise: a journey back in time in the open air.
Two final surprises await us: Au Facteur Cheval, the soul of the Ancien Régime hidden in Rue des États Généraux, then the Cour et Jardin des Senteurs, where we finish in style in a green setting inspired by the perfumes of yesteryear.
Our walk culminates at 18 Cour d'Honneur, facing the Palace — which you will now see in a completely different light.
Practical information: guided visit in French, about a 2-hour walk with 8 stops. Most admissions are free (admission not included for Little Versailles and the Potager du Roi). Bring good shoes and your curiosity: I'll take care of the rest.
