San Donato in Collina: Excursion from Torre a Cona to the Einsteins' Villa｜Italy

The tour departs from San Donato in Collina, the "Town of Frittelle," as proclaimed by the tourist sign. Since the Middle Ages, it has been a stopping point and place of refreshment for travelers of all kinds: it is no coincidence that the San Donato a Busilli tavern operated here until the 1920s. Herds from Casentino, Mugello, and Pratomagno also passed through here, moving to the Maremma region as autumn approached. As you travel along the provincial road, the area seems to lead you into the more modest countryside of a less showy and “polished” Chianti.

Yet, as soon as you round the bend, there it is: the majestic Torre a Cona, a dazzling sight in terms of its grandeur and architecture, which does not immediately reveal its unfinished state. The Torre a Cona, which still stands today, bears witness to its medieval origins, but there is also a rich history beyond that, including events related to World War II, during which it played a crucial role in saving many Florentine works of art.

On the estate, in addition to a two-millstone water mill that has now been converted into a residence, there is what appears to be a mysterious circular tower perched on the Merlaia hill, likely the largest of the three windmills that stood here in the 18th century.

As we try to imagine what it must have been like with its long, rotating arms, we walk through the villa's various outdoor spaces and then cross the vast landscapes of olive groves and vineyards, now bare. We will ascend to Montecucco, where we can enjoy a superb view stretching from Florence to the Upper Valdarno. A branch of the Cassia Vetus passed through here, and in medieval times, so did the Via Ghibellina between Florence and Poppi.

Once we've descended again, it's time to follow the path of remembrance. We will pass through places steeped in events that are now both uplifting and tragic, events experienced by the extended family of Cesarina Mazzetti and Robert Einstein (Albert's cousin) and by the entire community that lived in this rural area at that time. We will commemorate these events through the writings of an artist who was there at the time, when she was very young, and who later devoted her time to preserving their memory. A poignant memory that becomes a tribute to life.